This is our very first Style Breakdown. This is the story behind our bespoke green plaid suit along with the break down of its style and design options.
Originally this suit just started off as a concept, a simple idea for us at Anatoly & Sons. We decided that we wanted to recreate a vintage style suit with a modern twist. So, we ended up choosing a vintage cloth from Atlas Textiles on one of our trips to the Midwest. The silk & wool blend gives the suit a soft hand and beautiful light hang, while the dark green color allows for a beautiful elegant finish. This lightweight cloth allows for the suit to be worn year-round while the darkness in color creates a perfect shade for evening formals & galas.
The suit jacket is a single-breasted, false three-button that exemplifies today's common and popular two-button style. The Neapolitan soft shoulders, vale pockets, side vents & round notch lapel creates a casual, yet polished look. This Neapolitan shoulder style in particular is known as Spalla Camicia, which embodies the traditional shirt making style by inserting the extra seam allowance against the shoulders versus the traditional way, which goes against the sleeve. The slanted buttonholes are a twist from your typical straight surgeon cuffs—something we wanted to illustrate to our clients to indicate the level of craftsmanship in our bespoke garments.
The trousers on this suit are flat front, with a continuous waistband which requires an enormous amount of handwork only offered on our bespoke trousers. The rear pockets on this model are single-jetted compared to today's common double-jetted pockets, giving it a more casual finish to complement the jacket. The front pockets are slanted—common by today's standards. Finally, the vintage Hollywood side adjusters are used in place of belt loops with a belt and offer a final touch and luxurious finish.
Pictures and descriptions below.
This is a bespoke suit made by us at Anatoly & Sons using vintage silk & wool Italian cloth from Atlas Textiles.
The width of the check is 4 cm x 6cm (1.5 in. x 2.25 in).
The pockets are vale pockets.
The shoulder is a Neapolitan shoulder and the lapel is a round notch lapel.
The closure is a false three-button.
The sleeves are slanted surgeon cuffs with a contrasting first button.
The trousers are flat front with single-jetted back pockets, slanted front pockets, Hollywood adjustors, and a continuous waistband.